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The Kalu Yala Blog

Experiencing the Ease of Emberá Life

August 2, 2010

by Anne Walker Harrison
Posted In: Adventures in the Tropics, Designing the Village, Farm to Table Living, The Creation of a Culture

Excluding the pavilion, all structures are elevated about ten feet off the ground. They are constructed with myriad materials, all of which come from the surrounding forest. The supporting beams and columns are made of durable woods that are resistant to termites. These thick beams of long-lasting wood essentially frame the buildings and last between fifteen to twenty-five years. The roofs are thatched with several different types of palm leaves, and these last about six to eight years. Floors are are made of an incredibly lightweight and  flexible wood/bamboo that is split and laid flat. They have a large amount of give to them, and are supported underneath by solid beams. Within each home, a kitchen is constructed in one of the four corners. In order to safely have an open fire on a wooden floor, plantain leaves are laid down several inches deep. Next, clay is packed densely on top of them until it hardens. A wooden frame is constructed around the area, and this functions well for three to four years on average.

Tools in the kitchen consist of a purchased metal pot, a short machete, store-bought plates and cups for visitors, hollowed gourds with etched designs for holding water, a large metal spoon, and wooden serving platters of varying shape and size. Woven baskets are used for refuse, and plantain leaves are frequently folded into a pocket-like bowl for holding food.

Typical foods include stewed chicken, which is normally prepared in a tomato, onion, and pepper based sauce, flour-dusted fried fish (tilapia or other varieties caught in the river), and patacones, better known as smashed and twice fried plantains. The morning meal consists of fried eggs and an hojadra (fried bread made with flour, water and salt).

To accompany the morning meal either coffee or tea is served. The coffee is normally store bought, but the lemongrass tea is made from fresh lemon grass grown in the home of the village. Staples such as sugar, salt, oil, and flour are now purchased from the nearby town, but this transition is recent, and many of the older women do not use or did not traditionally use these items in the past.

After the main meal, fruits such as pineapple, guava, papaya or banana are served as a light dessert. A small finger bowl of water mixed with crushed basil leaves is presented to clean one’s hands. This cuts the grease from fried food surprisingly well. Also, we were given a plant to chew on which freshens breath and cleans teeth, although we were warned that prolonged use does dye the mouth black – Not going to make that one a habit!

Historically, the Emberá men hunted to supplement their diet of fish, vegetables and fruits. When the Chagres was converted into a national park, all hunting and commercial agriculture was banned. Before the ban was enacted their game included conejo pintado or wild rabbit, mono or monkey, Pabon, which is a turkey like bird, iguana, parejos or parrots, and agauti, coati, and other small rodents. The hunters used spears, bow and arrows, and even blow darts tipped with a highly poisonous plant extract.

The Embera rely heavily on the use of medicinal plants to maintain health and treat minor injuries. Most of this knowledge is held by the shaman, his close family, or the elders. We were taken on guided tour with the Shaman’s brother who was about 75 years of age. Within one hundred yards of the village we were shown plants that aided with urinary function, oral hygiene, libido, lacerations, birth control, headaches, nausea, and vomiting, as well as a vine from which fresh water can be drunk, a topical anesthetic, and the tree from which poison for their blowguns is harvested.

For women, the Embera dress is rather simple: a brightly colored and patterned wrap skirt. These were traditionally made of tree bark that was pounded flat and baked in the sun to create a white cloth-like material. The inclusion of modern fabric has been over the past thirty or forty years, but nevertheless it has been fully integrated into their culture. There do exist groups living in total isolation, who shun even their own tribe members that choose to interact with foreigners. These groups still dawn the traditional tree bark loincloths and skirts. Women are topless but often wear large strands of beads that were historically made from seeds and forest nuts. Today they are made of plastic, or are a mix of plastic and natural beading. Intricate silver necklaces and bracelets are also worn, and are often passed down from generation to generation.

Men wear a small loincloth that is held up with a very thin strand of thread. Outside of this, jagua tattoos are their only other form of decoration. They will occasionally wear beaded strands, but in a way that forms a cross over the chest. They too can have a silver necklaces, but these are mostly for special occasions.

Jagua tattooing is considered very much a part of the Embera culture. From the smallest infants to the oldest elders, everyone is painted with the geometric patterns made from the jagua nut. In addition to fortifying cultural identity and amplifying physical beauty, the tattoos act as a sunscreen and natural bug repellent.

In their free time, the men carve figures from jagua nuts as well as choco wood, which is brilliantly strong, lustrous, and multi-pigmented. The Embera women are known for their tradition of basket weaving. Intricate designs, brilliant colors made entirely from natural dyes, and stitches so tight that they can hold water are trademarks of their highly skilled work.

After spending only a day and a half with the Embera, I was surprised by how at home I felt amongst them. They are an incredibly rich and welcoming people, and I cannot wait for the opportunity to visit them once more.